One Floor With Walk-out Lower

Picture of One Floor With Walk-Out Lower

Specifications

Square Footage

Total Above-ground living area 2744
  Main Level 2744
Lower level living area  1518
Footprint    
The dimensions shown are for the house only (indicating the smallest area needed to build). They do not include the garage, porches, or decks, unless they are an integral part of the design.
73 W x 48 D

Rooms

Above-ground bedrooms 2
Above-ground bathrooms 2.5
Master suite Main
Lower-level bedrooms 1
Lower-level bathrooms 0

Attributes

Stories 1
Parking garage
Number of stalls 3
House height    
Traditionally, the overall height of a house is determined by measuring from the top of the finished floor on the main level, to the highest peak of the roof.
26
Ceiling heights    
Raising or lowering the height of the ceilings on one or more floors of a house is often a simple change that can be made by your builder. However, if you want to raise the ceiling of the main floor of a two-story home, there has to be room to add steps to the existing staircase.
  Main level 10
Vaulted ceilings    
We consider a room to be vaulted if the ceiling - whether flat, angled, or curved - is above 10 feet at its highest point. If you prefer that one or more rooms not be vaulted in your new home, this is a very simple change that your builder can make for you.

KEY TO SYMBOLS:

LR = Living Room/Great Room
DR = Dining Room
FAM = Family Room
FOY = Foyer
STU = Study/Library/Den
KIT = Kitchen
SUN = Sunroom
MBR = Master Bedroom
MB = Master Bath
LOF = Loft
OFF = Office/Guest Room
REC = Recreation/Game Room
ALL = Entire Level
LR, MBR, FOY, STU
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Main Level Floor Plans For One Floor With Walk-Out Lower

Main Level Floor Plans For One Floor With Walk-Out Lower

Lower Level Floor Plans For One Floor With Walk-Out Lower

Lower Level Floor Plans For One Floor With Walk-Out Lower
Picture 1 of One Floor With Walk-Out Lower
Picture 2 of One Floor With Walk-Out Lower
Picture 3 of One Floor With Walk-Out Lower
Picture 4 of One Floor With Walk-Out Lower
Picture 5 of One Floor With Walk-Out Lower
Picture 6 of One Floor With Walk-Out Lower
Picture 7 of One Floor With Walk-Out Lower
Picture 8 of One Floor With Walk-Out Lower
Picture 9 of One Floor With Walk-Out Lower

The original homeowners selected a combination of stucco, cedar lap, and synthetic stone for the exterior, along with rough fir at the entryway and metal roofing over all the windows and the front entryway (which features a sloped tongue & groove ceiling).

Upon entering the house, you step into a spacious square foyer space with a soaring 17’6″ ceiling criss–crossed by a pair of thick and exposed fir beams. This tall space and the beams are delineated by dashed lines in the floor plans, where you’ll see that they extend into other spaces (the laundry, two vestibules, and a powder room). Plant shelves are located in these other spaces to take advantage of the extra high ceilings. To the right of the foyer the ceiling drops to 10′ before you reach the double glass doors that open to a sunny study with a vaulted ceiling, as well as the stairs to the lower level.

Across from the stair railing there’s a vestibule that leads to a guest bathroom, while just beyond the railing there’s another vestibule that provides entry to the master suite. As you step into the open living areas of the house you enter a great room with a dramatic 13′ ceiling with regularly spaced exposed wood beams. The rear wall is filled with tall windows and a matching sliding glass door, topped by five 3′ x3′ windows. The sliding door provides access to a large covered rear deck with an open deck that wraps around it. A large fireplace flanked by built–ins in the great room can also be enjoyed from the kitchen and the dining room, and a small nook with an arched opening in one corner has a counter with a refrigerator below it and cabinets above.

The kitchen and dining area are side–by–side. They are open to the great room, with a visual demarcation as the ceiling drops to a more comfortable 10′. The kitchen is quite spacious, allowing for an extra large island in the center with a pair of sinks on top (allowing one to participate in the activities of the house even while doing the dishes!) and a dishwasher below, along with a curved protruding counter for casual eating and/or serving. The dining room has three outer walls – two filled with 6–foot–tall windows, and a third with sliding glass doors that open to the covered deck.

A cased opening off the kitchen brings you to a hallway that passes doors on either side that open to two pantries, a guest suite and a service elevator, and a storage closet and laundry room, before reaching the connected garages – one large enough for two cars, and another large enough for one more. The guest room/second bedroom has a 10′ ceiling, a walk–in closet, a private covered deck, and a bath with two sinks.

The right side of the house is occupied by the master suite. A pair of vestibules (the first has a multi–height ceiling with a plant shelf, and the second has a trayed ceiling that rises to 11′) bring you to a short hall that passes the master bath on the way to the bedroom. The bedroom ceiling rises from 10′ at the edges to 11′ in the middle. There’s a fireplace on one wall facing the bed, which has two high–mounted windows above it. Another outer wall has sliding glass doors that open to an open deck that connects to the covered deck off the great room. The bath area has a long soaking tub beneath a trio of windows, a glass–block enclosed shower in one corner, two widely separated vanities, and a private toilet. A door opens to a room–sized dressing area with a freestanding dresser in the middle and a conveniently located stacked washer and dryer.

As you descend the steps to the lower level, the first thing you see is a full bar with plenty of room for bar stools. And directly across from the bar is a walk–in wine cellar. The ceiling in the recreation room – like all of the rooms on the lower level – is set at 8’9″. The far wall has two tall windows flanking sliding glass doors that open to a covered patio. A pair of doors on the right open to an exercise studio with a trio of tall windows facing the rear and three more windows that look into the rec room, while another door next to it opens to a small bath with a shower.

An opening on the left of the rec room leads to a storage closet and a guest suite. This bedroom also has a trio of tall windows facing the rear, along with sliding glass doors that open to the covered patio. The remainder of the lower level is devoted to unfinished storage space. You’ll see in the floor plans that the service elevator opens into the storage space, next to a door that opens near the bar. This allowed the original homeowners – who clearly loved to entertain! – to move food and dishes between the kitchen and the rec room without using the stairs.

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Front Elevation For One Floor With Walk-Out Lower

Front Elevation For One Floor With Walk-Out Lower

Rear Elevation For One Floor With Walk-Out Lower

Rear Elevation For One Floor With Walk-Out Lower

Side 1 Elevation For One Floor With Walk-Out Lower

Side 1 Elevation For One Floor With Walk-Out Lower

Side 2 Elevation For One Floor With Walk-Out Lower

Side 2 Elevation For One Floor With Walk-Out Lower

Brief Description

While handsome and beautifully detailed, the front of this house gives no indication of its dramatic interior and fantastic views! There’s a master and a guest suite on the main level, while the downstairs is designed for another guest suite, a large recreation area with a full bar, and an exercise room that could be a bedroom by simply adding a closet. Ceiling heights vary from a lofty 10′ to a dramatic 13′ in the great room.

Select One Plan Set Option

   

5 Set Package:

Printed on Bond paper; may be modified, but not duplicated

Mylar:

Printed on Mylar; may be modified right on the plans, which can then be duplicated locally. Includes extra copy printed on Bond paper

PDF:

Highly Recommended
By far the most popular option! Instant, cost-free delivery via email; can be emailed to builder(s) and others; comes with license to modify & duplicate

CAD:

For use by design professionals to make substantial changes; may be printed locally after modifications are made; cost-free delivery via email
Clear selection

Select Optional Add-ons

   

Sometimes the house you want will only work on your property if it is built in the reverse of the original design. The plans for this particular design can be reversed by the architect, with right-reading (not mirror-reverse) words and measurements. The fee will only be added to your original order. If you wish to order more reverse copies of the plans later, please call us toll-free at 1-888-388-5735.

$150
   

If you need more than 5 sets, you can add them to your initial order, or order them (by phone) at a later date.

This option is only available to folks ordering the 5-Set Package.

$50 each
   

Often views or site characteristics make it either advantageous or necessary to build a house in the reverse of the way the plans were originally drawn. When reversed, the front of the house continues to face in the same direction, but rooms that were on the right side of the house as you face it will now be on the left, and vice versa. The lettering and numbers will appear as they would if you held the plans up to a mirror, but this will not present a problem for your builders, as they are quite familiar with this process.

We recommend that your order include both right-reading and mirror-reverse copies, since permit officials and lenders will need to see a right-reading version. There is a one-time cost of $50 to reverse the plans, whether you buy them all in your initial purchase, or a follow up order. The number you will need of each version is something your builder should advise you on.

Please note: If a right-reading reverse version of the plans is offered, this is definitely the version you should purchase, whether you're interested in bonds, vellums, or electronic files (when available).

$50
SKU: JR-042
Or order by phone by calling 888-388-5735

Jon Rentfrow – Residential Designer


To learn about this architect or firm, and/or to view all of their other plans, just click on the name above.

Plan ID #

JR-042

Click on any item below to see full explanation

  • What is bond paper?

    Bond paper

    Printers stopped using blue ink many years ago - it was very difficult to read, and the fumes were dangerous to inhale. So what we used to refer to as blueprints are now called bond copies (black ink printed on white bond paper).
  • 5-Set Construction or Bid Set

    5-Set Construction or Bid Set

    If you are building in an area that requires very few copies to construct a house, all you might need is the 5-Set Package. It's also best for folks wanting either a quick bid process, or bids from more than one builder. In either case, you can always purchase more bond copies later on if you need them, or upgrade to a Mylar, PDF or CAD version (your original cost will be deducted from the price of the upgrade). Bond copies cannot be duplicated, but they come with a formal Copyright License that gives you the legal right to construct the house, and to modify the plans beforehand to suit your needs. If allowed in your area, modifications can be "marked up" (some people refer it as "red-lining") right on the plans.
  • What is mylar?

    Mylar

    Vellum paper is no longer being manufactured, so we've switched to a vastly superior product called Mylar. These semi-transparent sheets are actually a thin-film composite that was designed for plan modification, using a simple electric eraser. The ink that is printed on them sits on the surface (instead of sinking into a coated vellum sheet), so lines and dimensions can be erased and redrawn quite easily by any design professional.
  • Plans printed on Mylar

    Plans printed on Mylar

    If you - like the vast majority of our other customers - intend to modify the plans before construction, and you are building in an area where plans can't simply be "marked up" with a red pen, the Mylar copy is definitely what you should order (unless of course you prefer the PDF version). After the changes have been made to this "master" copy, you or your builder can then print as many copies as you need, whenever you need them, on regular bond paper. That way everyone - you, your builder, his or her subcontractors, local permit officials, and your lender - will have the final version of the plans to work with. Even though they cost a bit more initially, they will definitely save you time and money later on. Mylar copies come with a formal Copyright Release giving you the legal right to modify them in any way you wish, and to make as many copies of the plans as you need to successfully build one house. Mylar copies are shipped with a free bond copy of the plans, so that you have something to look over and mark up before making final decisions about the changes you want made to the "master" set.
  • What are PDF electronic files?

    PDF electronic files

    The acronym PDF stands for Portable Document Format. These are electronic files that can be emailed from computer to computer. You can open them on your own computer as well as email them to others, and the Copyright Release you receive with them allows you to make as many copies as you need before and after modifications are made.
  • Plans in PDF format

    Plans in PDF format

    THE most popular way to purchase plans these days is in PDF format. It's no more expensive than the Mylar version, plus you save $30 in shipping fees because the plans are emailed to you. But the biggest reason why they're so popular is because they can be passed along to others via email. The builder can zip them to their sub-contractors, truss manufacturers, and (if needed) an engineer; you can open them on your own computer to view at your home or office; and you can zip them to your builder (or builders), lender, and anyone needing to approve the plans before construction. If you'd still like to make modifications on Mylar sheets, your Copyright Release allows you (or your builder) to do this locally, and you'll only need to print a handful of the most important sheets.
  • What are CAD files?

    CAD files

    The acronym CAD stands for Computer-Aided Design. Design software from AutoCAD and numerous other companies - ArchiCAD, SoftPlan, VectorWorks, etc. - is used to draw plans in a format (DWG - short for drawing) that can be easily manipulated and modified on a computer. This can speed up the process of modification dramatically - for example, a change in one part of the plans creates an automatic change throughout the drawings -- potentially saving the person making the changes quite a bit of time, and thus saving you quite a bit of money!
  • Plans in CAD format

    Plans in CAD format

    Plans purchased in this electronic format are emailed, so you get them right away, and there's no shipping fee. Like the Mylar and PDF options, these plans come with a formal Copyright Release giving you the legal right to modify them in any way you wish, and to make as many copies of the plans as you need to successfully build one house. If the changes you wish to make to our plans are rather extensive, or structural in nature (including changing exterior wall systems), purchasing the plans in CAD format will almost certainly be your best option. Design professionals charge by the hour, and making changes to electronic files is much faster and easier than erasing and redrawing lines and dimensions on a Mylar copy. So purchasing an electronic version of the plans can save you both time and money. The files you receive will provide the drawings in at least two formats: .DWG files that will enable the person modifying your plans to do so using AutoCAD software (the standard for the entire construction and engineering communities); and .PDF files that will enable you to view the plans on your home or office computer. If the plans were originally drawn with a design software program other than AutoCAD (eg. SoftPlan, ArchiCAD, VectorWorks, etc.), this will be noted at the end of the Description of this house, and the email will include these files along with the .DWG and .PDF formats.
Bedrooms

We highly recommend that you click on two boxes – the number of bedrooms you know you need, and one less bedroom. For example, if you need 4 bedrooms, click on the boxes next to 4 and next to 3. Otherwise you will not see homes where existing rooms on the lower, main, or upper levels might work perfectly well as a bedroom instead of as an office, study, etc.

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