Low Country Living

Picture of Low Country Living


Square Footage

Total Above-ground living area 3356
  Main 2446
  Upper 910
Lower level living area  
The dimensions shown are for the house only (indicating the smallest area needed to build). They do not include the garage, porches, or decks, unless they are an integral part of the design.
63.5 W x 40.333 D


Above-ground bedrooms 3
Above-ground bathrooms 3.5
Master suite Main
Lower-level bedrooms 0
Lower-level bathrooms 0


Stories 2
Parking garage
Number of stalls 2
House height    
Traditionally, the overall height of a house is determined by measuring from the top of the finished floor on the main level, to the highest peak of the roof.
Ceiling heights    
Raising or lowering the height of the ceilings on one or more floors of a house is often a simple change that can be made by your builder. However, if you want to raise the ceiling of the main floor of a two-story home, there has to be room to add steps to the existing staircase.
  Main level 11
  Upper level 9
Vaulted ceilings    
We consider a room to be vaulted if the ceiling - whether flat, angled, or curved - is above 10 feet at its highest point. If you prefer that one or more rooms not be vaulted in your new home, this is a very simple change that your builder can make for you.


LR = Living Room/Great Room
DR = Dining Room
FAM = Family Room
FOY = Foyer
STU = Study/Library/Den
KIT = Kitchen
SUN = Sunroom
MBR = Master Bedroom
MB = Master Bath
LOF = Loft
OFF = Office/Guest Room
REC = Recreation/Game Room
ALL = Entire Level
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Main Level Floor Plans For Low Country Living

Main Level Floor Plans For Low Country Living

Upper Level Floor Plans For Low Country Living

Upper Level Floor Plans For Low Country Living
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This classic low country home was clearly designed for a family that likes to spend a lot of time outdoors. There are covered porches in front and in the rear, each spanning the entire 57–foot width of the house. The covered porch at the front is 8' deep, so there's plenty of room for furniture, and at the rear it is a spacious 12' deep, with screened areas at either end. One screened porch is off the master bedroom, while the other is off the dining room.

The front door is flanked by narrow windows, with transom windows above, allowing daylight into the foyer. The foyer is vaulted to the roofline, with a window high up in the center dormer providing additional light. The stairs to the upper level are on the left, and the great room is straight ahead. Just before entering the great room you'll find a powder room and a coat closet on either side.

Like all the rooms on the main level, the great room features a dramatic 11' ceiling, making each room feel larger and more spacious. There's a fireplace on the right wall, with openings to the family room and the dining room on either side, and the far wall has three pairs of glazed doors with transoms above that open out to the rear covered porch.

The kitchen is quite large, with plenty of counter space and cabinets, and lots of windows for light and views. There's a large island in the center with a built–in range on top, and near it is a pocket door that opens to a combination laundry room and mudroom. Next to the kitchen, and open to it, is a family room with an optional fireplace flanked by windows at one end, and just beyond it is a formal dining room. A pair of glazed doors flanked by windows in the dining room open to a screened porch at the rear of the house.

The rest of the main level is devoted to the master suite. The master bedroom has two large windows facing the side yard, and two more facing the rear separated by two glazed doors that open to another screened porch. A short hall from the bedroom leads past a spacious walk–in closet to the master bath. The bath features a soaking tub between two windows, a large shower, two sinks, and a private toilet room.

At the top of the stairs to the upper level is a loft area with a ceiling that slopes up to 12'. A railing at one end looks down to the foyer, and two doors on opposite sides open to two bedroom suites. Each bedroom has a wall of windows facing the rear, and a built–in window seat in the corner. Each has its own walk–in closet and full bath, and they share two good–sized attic spaces for storage. The ceilings on this level are 9' high.

These plans also come with drawings for a detached 2–car garage that could be attached by a breezeway. Stairs in the corner bring you to an upper level with a full bath and an undeveloped room that is referred to as the bonus room in the plans. The ceiling on this level slopes up to a 9' flat ceiling in the middle, and there's plenty of room to turn it into a guest cottage.

Similar Versions Available
There is a similar version of this plan – Low Country Living 2 – available on this site. For easy access to this other version, click on the architect's name (in bold blue letters, on the left side of this page). Red links to each of his plans appear below his bio, in alphabetical order.

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Front Elevation For Low Country Living

Front Elevation For Low Country Living

Rear Elevation For Low Country Living

Rear Elevation For Low Country Living

Side 1 Elevation For Low Country Living

Side 1 Elevation For Low Country Living

Side 2 Elevation For Low Country Living

Side 2 Elevation For Low Country Living

Elevation 1 For Low Country Living

Elevation 1 For Low Country Living

Brief Description

This traditional Southern classic was originally designed for the low country of the Carolinas, but as you'll see from the many photos we have of this house, it would fit in nicely nearly anywhere. There are views from every room on the main level, through tall windows topped by transoms, and dormer windows in the front and clerestory windows in the rear allow even more natural light. The ceilings are set at an astonishing 11', making all the rooms feel more spacious. A covered porch spans the entire front of the house, and one at the rear is flanked by screen porches and is connected to an open deck.

Select One Plan Set Option


5 Set Package:

Printed on Bond paper; may be modified, but not duplicated


Printed on Mylar; may be modified right on the plans, which can then be duplicated locally. Includes extra copy printed on Bond paper


Highly Recommended
By far the most popular option! Instant, cost-free delivery via email; can be emailed to builder(s) and others; comes with license to modify & duplicate


For use by design professionals to make substantial changes; may be printed locally after modifications are made; cost-free delivery via email
Clear selection

Select Optional Add-ons


Sometimes the house you want will only work on your property if it is built in the reverse of the original design. The plans for this particular design can be reversed by the architect, with right-reading (not mirror-reverse) words and measurements. The fee will only be added to your original order. If you wish to order more reverse copies of the plans later, please call us toll-free at 1-888-388-5735.


If you need more than 5 sets, you can add them to your initial order, or order them (by phone) at a later date.

This option is only available to folks ordering the 5-Set Package.

$50 each

Often views or site characteristics make it either advantageous or necessary to build a house in the reverse of the way the plans were originally drawn. When reversed, the front of the house continues to face in the same direction, but rooms that were on the right side of the house as you face it will now be on the left, and vice versa. The lettering and numbers will appear as they would if you held the plans up to a mirror, but this will not present a problem for your builders, as they are quite familiar with this process.

We recommend that your order include both right-reading and mirror-reverse copies, since permit officials and lenders will need to see a right-reading version. There is a one-time cost of $50 to reverse the plans, whether you buy them all in your initial purchase, or a follow up order. The number you will need of each version is something your builder should advise you on.

Please note: If a right-reading reverse version of the plans is offered, this is definitely the version you should purchase, whether you're interested in bonds, vellums, or electronic files (when available).

SKU: AR-028
Or order by phone by calling 888-388-5735

Bill Allister & Wayne Rainey – Architects

To learn about this architect or firm, and/or to view all of their other plans, just click on the name above.

Plan ID #


Click on any item below to see full explanation

  • What is bond paper?

    Bond paper

    Printers stopped using blue ink many years ago - it was very difficult to read, and the fumes were dangerous to inhale. So what we used to refer to as blueprints are now called bond copies (black ink printed on white bond paper).
  • 5-Set Construction or Bid Set

    5-Set Construction or Bid Set

    If you are building in an area that requires very few copies to construct a house, all you might need is the 5-Set Package. It's also best for folks wanting either a quick bid process, or bids from more than one builder. In either case, you can always purchase more bond copies later on if you need them, or upgrade to a Mylar, PDF or CAD version (your original cost will be deducted from the price of the upgrade). Bond copies cannot be duplicated, but they come with a formal Copyright License that gives you the legal right to construct the house, and to modify the plans beforehand to suit your needs. If allowed in your area, modifications can be "marked up" (some people refer it as "red-lining") right on the plans.
  • What is mylar?


    Vellum paper is no longer being manufactured, so we've switched to a vastly superior product called Mylar. These semi-transparent sheets are actually a thin-film composite that was designed for plan modification, using a simple electric eraser. The ink that is printed on them sits on the surface (instead of sinking into a coated vellum sheet), so lines and dimensions can be erased and redrawn quite easily by any design professional.
  • Plans printed on Mylar

    Plans printed on Mylar

    If you - like the vast majority of our other customers - intend to modify the plans before construction, and you are building in an area where plans can't simply be "marked up" with a red pen, the Mylar copy is definitely what you should order (unless of course you prefer the PDF version). After the changes have been made to this "master" copy, you or your builder can then print as many copies as you need, whenever you need them, on regular bond paper. That way everyone - you, your builder, his or her subcontractors, local permit officials, and your lender - will have the final version of the plans to work with. Even though they cost a bit more initially, they will definitely save you time and money later on. Mylar copies come with a formal Copyright Release giving you the legal right to modify them in any way you wish, and to make as many copies of the plans as you need to successfully build one house. Mylar copies are shipped with a free bond copy of the plans, so that you have something to look over and mark up before making final decisions about the changes you want made to the "master" set.
  • What are PDF electronic files?

    PDF electronic files

    The acronym PDF stands for Portable Document Format. These are electronic files that can be emailed from computer to computer. You can open them on your own computer as well as email them to others, and the Copyright Release you receive with them allows you to make as many copies as you need before and after modifications are made.
  • Plans in PDF format

    Plans in PDF format

    THE most popular way to purchase plans these days is in PDF format. It's no more expensive than the Mylar version, plus you save $30 in shipping fees because the plans are emailed to you. But the biggest reason why they're so popular is because they can be passed along to others via email. The builder can zip them to their sub-contractors, truss manufacturers, and (if needed) an engineer; you can open them on your own computer to view at your home or office; and you can zip them to your builder (or builders), lender, and anyone needing to approve the plans before construction. If you'd still like to make modifications on Mylar sheets, your Copyright Release allows you (or your builder) to do this locally, and you'll only need to print a handful of the most important sheets.
  • What are CAD files?

    CAD files

    The acronym CAD stands for Computer-Aided Design. Design software from AutoCAD and numerous other companies - ArchiCAD, SoftPlan, VectorWorks, etc. - is used to draw plans in a format (DWG - short for drawing) that can be easily manipulated and modified on a computer. This can speed up the process of modification dramatically - for example, a change in one part of the plans creates an automatic change throughout the drawings -- potentially saving the person making the changes quite a bit of time, and thus saving you quite a bit of money!
  • Plans in CAD format

    Plans in CAD format

    Plans purchased in this electronic format are emailed, so you get them right away, and there's no shipping fee. Like the Mylar and PDF options, these plans come with a formal Copyright Release giving you the legal right to modify them in any way you wish, and to make as many copies of the plans as you need to successfully build one house. If the changes you wish to make to our plans are rather extensive, or structural in nature (including changing exterior wall systems), purchasing the plans in CAD format will almost certainly be your best option. Design professionals charge by the hour, and making changes to electronic files is much faster and easier than erasing and redrawing lines and dimensions on a Mylar copy. So purchasing an electronic version of the plans can save you both time and money. The files you receive will provide the drawings in at least two formats: .DWG files that will enable the person modifying your plans to do so using AutoCAD software (the standard for the entire construction and engineering communities); and .PDF files that will enable you to view the plans on your home or office computer. If the plans were originally drawn with a design software program other than AutoCAD (eg. SoftPlan, ArchiCAD, VectorWorks, etc.), this will be noted at the end of the Description of this house, and the email will include these files along with the .DWG and .PDF formats.

We highly recommend that you click on two boxes – the number of bedrooms you know you need, and one less bedroom. For example, if you need 4 bedrooms, click on the boxes next to 4 and next to 3. Otherwise you will not see homes where existing rooms on the lower, main, or upper levels might work perfectly well as a bedroom instead of as an office, study, etc.